Waves and Tides MP 431

Objectives: Getting the student familiar with the effects of earth rotation and the water vertical stratification on the water motion in the seas and oceans.

Contents: Waves: Classification of waves - Wind generated waves - Wave forms in deep and shallow waters - Wave dispersion and group speed - Wave energy – Wave attenuation effects: breaking, friction and whitecapping – Wave transformation effects: shoaling, refraction, diffraction and reflection –Waves of unusual character – Tides: Tide-generating forces - The dynamical theory of tides - Tidal constituents - Tidal currents - Tidal Power.

Practical: Instruments used to measure waves and tides - Analysis of typical wave records for height and period - Analysis of tidal records.

Text Books & References:

- Open University Course Team (1989). Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes. Pergamon Press.

-    Emery, W. J., Thomson, R. E. (2001). Data Analysis Methods in Physical Oceanography. Elsevier.